Ski / Splitboard Mountaineering Leadership Course 

During this course, you will learn the fundamental skills necessary to access glaciated peaks with confidence on your backcountry setup. This immersive program will cover everything from the basics of ski mountaineering to more advanced techniques of managing glaciated terrain and exposed rock on skis. Through a combination of hands-on training and expert guidance, you will gain the knowledge and practical experience to tackle your goals head on. Our culminating objective is the awe-inspiring summit of Mount Baker, a challenging endeavor that will put your newfound skills to the test.

This course is designed for advanced skiers/riders with at least one year of backcountry skiing experience. You should be comfortable navigating trees, rolling terrain, and various snow quality, and advanced terrain. You should be able to manage a 5,000ft uphill vertical elevation day. AIARE 1 or equivalent avalanche education is required. You should be able to carry a 45lb pack while skinning uphill.

Mount Baker is a beautiful glaciated peak in northern Washington. It is the second most glaciated peak located in the lower 48. It has a rich native history, and is also referred to by its native name, Kulshan. This name has several translations, one being “great white watcher.” This massive, rugged, and beautiful peak is etched with the history of our humanity. 

There are three main routes Kulshan that we utilize– the Easton, Squak, and Coleman Demming routes. We will use one of these routes based on relevant conditions. They are similar in difficulty, effort, and length.

Much of the route is <30 degrees, therefore staying out of avalanche terrain. However there are several sections that get up to 40 degrees.

There are two main routes on Komo Kulshan that we utilize– the Easton glacier and the Coleman Demming Glacier. We will use one of these routes based on relevant conditions. They are similar in difficulty, effort, and length.

Much of the route is <30 degrees, therefore staying out of avalanche terrain. However there are several sections that get up to 40 degrees.

• Introduction to glaciology, native lands, and mountaineering

• Crevasse Rescue (ski specific + traditional)

• Anchors + ski anchors

• Self Ascending (on and off skis)

• Crampon and ice axe techniques (on and off skis)

• Self arrest (with ice axe and with ski poles)

• Snow camping

• Navigation and route selection

• Glacier rope travel and rope decision making on skis

• Expedition style trip logistics: Cookware selection, tent setups, shelter options

• Gear selection and packing

• Snow rescue drill

• Safety and hazard assessment/management

• Avalanche awareness and terrain management

• Tour leadership and line selection

• Leave no trace principles

• Mindset setting, breath work

Day 1:

Meet at 8am, check all gear, and start introductions

Tour in to our designated camp (4 – 5 hours / up to 3,000ft elevation gain)

Set up our base camp for the week and enjoy our first alpine meal together

Day 2:

Morning tour on the glacier

Terrain management, crevasse identification, route selection, and navigation

Snow school

Footwork in crampons

Ski crampon usage

Use of an ice axe and self arrest / self arrest with a ski pole

Rope team travel

Team arrest

Gear selection

Knot school: Learn the most helpful alpine knots

Running protection and fixed protection

Day 3 (Day 3 and 4 may switch)

Apply the skills we learned in the previous days, and go for our summit climb. Expect 5 - 6 hours to reach the summit, with 5,000ft of elevation gain. Our descent will take 1 - 2 hours

Return to base camp

Group debrief and sharing over dinner

Relax and decompress after a long day – optional stretching breakout session

Day 4

Crevasse rescue

Rescuing a climber

Self rescue – rope ascension

Ropes and anchor systems

Ski anchors

Return to camp, and celebrate our final night together on the mountain over a fresh meal

Day 5

Pack up base camp and ski out (2-4 hours from camp to trail), debrief in town.

• Wilderness permits 

• Guides

• Tents

• Ropes, anchors, and group climbing gear

• Stoves and cookware

• Breakfast and dinner

After signing up, you will receive a confirmation email containing an informational packet of how best to train, a packing list, and other course information that will be helpful for you to review.